Before installation begins, check that the subfloor or battens meet the flatness requirements of +/-2 mm over a 2-meter straightedge. The substrate must be firm and stable (not springy). A vapor barrier must be installed when there is a risk of moisture penetration from below (always use a vapor barrier on concrete). Use at least 0.20 mm PE film and foam, felt or similar.

Never install a vapor barrier on top of organic materials (wood, etc.) due to the risk of rot and fungi. When installing, open several packs continuously in advance and mix from several packs – in case of visible defects or unwanted structural variations, cut off the plank.

Cut planks are reserved for "start and end planks" and are used continuously during laying. Only planks with pervasive defects will be replaced.

Especially for pine floors or plank floors of a rustic grading, it is possible/recommended to cut away a lot of minor defects (edge knots - filled knots, etc.) without significantly increasing the overall consumption, so be critical. The sawn-off planks can easily be used without significant waste at the start and end of the rows.

Please note that laid planks are accepted, and therefore any complaints will be rejected.

Lay planks with the same production date together to avoid any minimal differences in production batches. Start laying along a straight wall and lay the laminate flooring with the tongue facing forward. It is important that the first 2 rows have completely closed end joints; "a good start is half the battle".

Use spacers or wedges to maintain the necessary distance from the wall (10 mm). For floating installations, the glue is applied in two continuous strips on the top and bottom of the groove. When the wooden planks are joined, the glue is thereby drawn into the groove.

Immediately wipe off any excess glue with a damp, clean cloth. End joints are assembled first, and then lengthwise. Strike the tapping block obliquely towards the end joint, which provides the best tightness in the end joint. The distance between the endwise joints varies between plank rows, without creating a pattern.

Use a tapping block made of hardwood or synthetic material, held against the tongue. Never use a piece of "waste" from the floor, as this can damage the wear layer of the floor. Maintain a 10 mm distance from fixed installations – pipes, etc.

Install a scotia so that you don't risk the floor "slipping" skirting boards, etc. – this is normal good Danish craftsmanship. If the plank floor is to be laid in several rooms, the floor area should be divided at doorways, etc. Expansion joints should be established for larger floor areas, especially if the planks run across the opening.

For underfloor heating in combination with wooden floors, it is especially important that the system has been in operation before laying the floor. The system should be stopped 2 days before floor laying begins. The control for the heating system must be installed and commissioned.

After installing the wooden floor, the temperature is gradually raised, and the same procedure is used at the beginning and end of the heating season. Never suddenly open or close the underfloor heating for wooden floors.

The flow temperature must not be too high, and the maximum temperature on the surface of the wooden floor must not exceed 27 degrees (measured with an infrared thermometer). Experience shows that a surface temperature of 27 degrees corresponds to a 35-degree flow in a water-based underfloor heating system in a concrete layer.